Thursday 28 February 2013

Fw: ANCHORAGE NOTES SULAWESI

Bruce and Kerry
We received an email from a sailmail address of a boat we did not recognise, but on the list of sent to was another email address which I assume is for you.
We sent this email a while ago and wondered if you have received it or if you have changed email addresses.
Hope all is well.
Duncan and Ria

Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 4:56 PM
Subject: Fw: ANCHORAGE NOTES SULAWESI

Dear Bruce and Kerry
 
We are forwarding this email from Elaine Morgan as we thought you might be able to help with notes on anchorages in islands in the Philippines. She is one of the authors of cruising in SE Asia Vol 1 and 2. We have been providing her with our notes of last year, but as you know, we did not go to the Philippines. If you are happy to do this can I forward you email address to her? Or alternatively you could contact her and explain that we have made contact with you regarding this.
We are enjoying a few months in UK and seeing family and friends. We hope that you are both well.
Kind regards
Duncan and Ria

Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2013 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: ANCHORAGE NOTES SULAWESI

Dear Ria and Duncan

I much enjoyed reading the article. Thanks very much for this and the associated table. Info will be included in a supplement to Volume 2.

 In retrospect, do you think you would have missed a lot around the coast if you had not had your contacts? I wonder also if you heard of anyone visiting Bitung again, or the anchorages we marked on the chartlet in Vol 2 of the guide (page 78) such as Kendari or the islands of KepTake Bone Rate?We didn't go there either, but others have.

With what you have already given me for Volume 1 and some input from other sources, I am now hoping to start the work on the revised edition of Vol1 around Easter, once the next issue of the magazine I edit has gone to press. That said, should you find changes when you are back in Malaysia/ Singapore, please do let me know.

I am still looking for new info on the PHilippines, although I do have some leads. Should you hear of anyone else going in that direction I would be very glad of their contact details. So far I haven't heard back again from Cookie Cutter. 

Best wishes, wherever you are, and thanks again,
Elaine


Sent from my iPad

On 13 Feb, 2013, at 6:50 AM, Duncan and Ria Briggs <duncanria.briggs@gmail.com> wrote:

Dear Elaine,
 
Our Email of 11 Feb below, plus the attachments. Hope you are soon fully recovered from the flu.
 
Kind regards
 
Ria and Duncan 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2013 1:36 AM
Subject: ANCHORAGE NOTES SULAWESI

Dear Elaine and Ken,
 
Further to my Email of 30 Jan, I am afraid that there were a few errors of detail in the table that I sent you. these have now been corrected and the updated table of anchorages is attached. Please destroy the earlier one to avoid confusion.
 
Elaine,I have also attached a copy of the article we sent to Anne Hammick for the Flying Fish which you asked for. The attached one is a little longer than the final version for Anne and therefore includes a bit more detail.
 
Ken, wonderful to hear that Jane has been finally given the "all clear", it must be such a relief to both of you. We hope that you had a good time in UK despite the very wintery weather.
 
Very best wishes to you all for the "Year of the Snake", hope that you are having a great Chinese New Year holiday.
 
Kind regards
 
Ria and Duncan 
<Anchorages SulawesiA.docx>
<SAILING SEATOPAZ AROUND SULAWESI C.docx>

Friday 22 February 2013

PORT BLAIR PORT CLEARANCE OLIVIA DEPARTS 20 FEB2013

Today Olivia flew out and we got ready for departure tomorrow.we emptied our 4 x 20 L jerry cans diesel into main fuel tanks,then put them into dinghy, along with with Olivias luggage,3 bags of plastic/glass rubbish and 5 bags of dirty clothes & us 4. At 8 am a very full dinghy departed Haven for chatham dock.Umapata the boat boy was waiting,as was Vijay our taxidriver.first stop was laundry lady.then diesel.then harbour master,1st step in getting port clearance.then to airport for olivia to catch plane home to australia-via kalcuta and singapore,to start year 3 of uni .back to harbour master to collect signed port clearance.back on main road,we saw all our laundry out drying on line along the road,with a huge amount of other washing out in sun.back to dinghy to unload diesel,and scored a big cleaned fish from sportfishing boat,.scaled and filleted it on haven.back for more diesel,and next stop,customs,but a delay for 1 & 1/2 hours,so next door for local lunch,then internet cafe.we had bought internet for our computer but basically useless.next stop immigration.they have to stamp our passports but only 2 hours before departure,at dinghy dock,so see them again early tomorrow.off to Aberdeen bazaar for fruit,vege and one frozen chicken.final stop scuba shop to get new mask we bought last week fixed-they couldnot-so gave us a new one.laundry waiting for us at dinghy dock..Back to Haven as sun was setting. a busy day.cooked some of the free fish for dinner-delicious.lovely evening on Haven,in port blair harbour,another 2 yachts and 2 cats anchored near us,local ferries going to and fro,big ships tied up and at anchor,bright lights of docks across the water.
so we have enjoyed our two weeks in the Andamans.the islands were nice,the snorkelling also nice,but not as good as expected,havelock island great-anchorage at beach number 7 with great sunsets,elephant,taxi trip across rural hinterland,lunch at full moon cafe, & laccam harbour-chai,neill island an unexpected daytrip ashore,and finally port blair=terrific-the indian culture,food,chais and friendly people,easy dinghy dock and taxi,aberdeen bazaar,the harbour,local boats,the tuk tuks and the many cows walking serenely along the main roads.
so tomorrow set sail for phuket.sophie will continue travelling with us till singapore.

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Tuesday 19 February 2013

neill island 18feb13

awoke in a very pretty anchorage.one catamaran,which left early.a deserted island-except for one dog-which had an eerie howl overnight.we saw it running along the beach this morning-still with a soulful sad howl.went for a lovely snorkel off reef point henry lawrence island-great vis and fish.altho only 3 goodsize fish and they were very shy-no wonder with a fishing net all along reef overnight.After lunch,changed port to starboard fuel tank,and started the engine,which kept stopping-air in fuel filter guage-no problem,just undo and bleed it,but still stopping,and more air.then realised fuel tank was turned off!(not by us-someone at boat lagoon marina).then started making water ,but bad smell-check manual=nasty plankton,so time to put in a new 5 micron filter=nice water!always something new for us to learn.eventually made it to neill island anchorage,where 2 french yachts already were.but huge clouds,and wind on shore from northwest,so headed around to southern (ocelot) anchorage..some thunder,wind and a few drops of rain.played canasta after dinner.

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Sunday 17 February 2013

HENRY LAWRENCE 17feb2013

after a leisurely morning we motorsailed 5nm to inglis island for a snorkel.then after lunch we continued south,5nm to henry lawrence island, anchoring up from cliff headland off sandy beach.a local colourful fishing boat arrived towing 2 skiffs,one of which was loaded with nets.then big boat departed.the 3 men rowed he skiff past haven,big happy smiles,no motor ,putting out net along beachfront.early dinner-spagetti with sauce made from potatos,canned tomatoes,olives,and fried eggplant ,garlic and onion.the crew said it was very nice.another boat arrived before sunset.finnished the moonshine logs by a solloo sailor who went in first ostar race in 1976 on a valiant 40,and the first boc solo around the world yacht race ,1982-3,age 57-impressive achievement and pleasant reading,but hard work,sleep deprivation and close calls-not my cup of tea.now re-reading ian mcewan-a fat man in history-bizarre short stories.kerry reading kerry rogers bio and hal roth storms at sea book,and soph just started lionheart=jesse martin bio,and liv reading -crossing the ditch-the 2 ozzies who kayaked oz to new zealand.all very peaceful out here.

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outram island 16feb2013

went over to Kalypso for a chat about anchorages.3 yachts departed,then us,leaving Kalypso alone.we motored 2nm ,towing dinghy,to MIDDLE BUTTON ISLAND.pretty little island-looks deserted,alth apparently has a ranger station.dropped anchor and took dinghy for a long drift snorkel,ended on a white sandspit,then back to haven for lunch.then a lovely slow sail across to charka juru strait between henry lawrence island and outram island.the young crew were relaxing-one in salon watching the big bang,the other on fordeck ,in shade of genoa,reading latest fantasy novel.on the way kerrys bread came out of oven so we had a delicious afternoon tea.dropped anchor in 10 m off mangroves,sandy beach and low red cliffs.tooke dinghy out trolling for fish but no luck.however sunset over glassy water was superb.sundowners after sunset,on haven.we are only boat here,bright stars and half moon above,no noise,only sign of mankind is distant lighthouse blinking every 12 seconds.nice being so remote.some quiet reading,then a simple meal of pumpkin and mozzerella cheese.today i worked out how to choose albums on ipod on haven sound system,so of monsters and men was changed to the animals.( this dinosaur is not extinct yet)tomorrow we move south.

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NORTH BUTTON ISLAND 15 FEB2013

My favourite anchorage in Andamans so far.
a lovely 2 hour drift dive along southern reef,between yachts and shore.sadly the coral all died in 2010.but good vis and nice tropical fish,some spotted cod,eels andone active black and white striped sea snake.after lunch we went ashore for a walk on beaches,then climbed to top of the cliff,for great views over reef,Haven and other yachts.for dinner sophie cooked a delicious
Chana Dal Fry lentil meal.

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Thursday 14 February 2013

NORTH BUTTON ISLAND,ANDAMANS,14feb2013

after watching an elephant swimming in the bay we went 20 nm north to north button island .3 yachts and one catamaran at anchor, in south bay,protected from noreasterly. dropped anchor in 23 meters and can see bottom.pretty little island with sandy beach,sandspit to left,a small central cream cliff and lots of trees. no buildings,no people.kerrys bread was almost ready to come out of oven,so got dinghy ready,then a tasty lunch of fresh bread,ham,cheese a,mustard and pepper.this necessitated a postprandiol nap.then ndinghy ashore,where the ladies walked around the island ,and i went to talk to a french man about snorkelling.less fish than last year,and the humphead parrotfish have gone-he said.had a nice long snorkel.lots of dead coral.must have been spectacular once.enough fish.after dinner we played canasta-kerry and liv won well.finnished "a Fortunate Life"-v.good,( an oz classic)reminds me of my fathers and grandparents life.browsing south america travel guide0sophie is having year off uni,travelling with chris in 2nd half of year overseas but not decidd where yet.sth america looks good .liv plans to go there next year,and we will probably also.now reading "Deranged Marriage" a funny book about arranged marriages amongst indian people-set in australia,but somewhat appropriate being here.apparently in india 96% are arranged,but here only1/3. staying here tomorrow.

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HAVELOCK ISLAND FULL MOON CAFE 13 FEB2013

After a morning snorkel with a dozen humphead parrotfish,we went ashore a got a taxi minivan to take us over to havelock beach #5.it was a 13 drive over the island.very rural ,with fallow ricefields,little villages and waterbuffalo.HB#5 is main tourist area,with lowkey bungalow resorts along beach.we went to resort with Full Moon cafe.lovely place at beach0open plan,timber tables and chairs,thatched rooves,and circular pointed ceiling done with ribbons of bright material strips.the food was very good,esp the nonveg thali,they played eclectic background music,and the large ginger chais and madrad coffees were great,so it we had a lovely long meal.then a long walk,along beach.lots of colouful local wooden boats on aqua water.then mangroves with amazing exposed roots as low tide.lots of backpacker type places,then some local villages-one lady took her 2 pigs down to beach on a leash,and a man took his cow for a beachwalk.we arrived at Havelock harbour.an interisland ferry was unloading ,then loading passengers.althe beach area had many local wooden boats,most with ancient exposed motors.along waterfront was a small colourful street,with coconut vendors,shops and tearooms-we stopped for a chai where 4 goats wandered in and out.tuk tuk home,another beautiful sunset on HB#7, behind Haven ,the only yacht at anchor,played cards after dinner-the young crew did well.Moving on tomorrow.

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Tuesday 12 February 2013

havelock beach number 7. feb12,2013

fabulous day.motorsailed into noreasterly from port blair,20 nm to havelock island.anchored in lovely long bay off long sandy beach with huge green trees behind and above.dinghy ashore and lunch at little blue cafe called daydream restaurant.nice food.lots of european accents.then a long walk thru tall primevil trees, parallel to beach.we met two men out walking a particularly large elephant.
back along the beach.stopped at a lagoon between rocks for sunset swim.lots of cool westerners.then back along beach with huge red sun getting lower in sky behind us-so pretty-reflections on water and wet sand..as we approached end of walk there were about 100 indian tourists enjoying the spectacular late afternoon.About half of them has their bags,or shoes,or selves on our dinghy!with some reluctance they moved so we could return to Haven..
just time for a beer in cockpit reading 'A Fortunate life"by A B Facey till too dark.kerry cooking fried rice,tracey chapman on the ipod.fabulous day.

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Monday 11 February 2013

port blair outboard motors 11feb2013

we arrived back in port blair at 0930 after a nice motor sail into brisk north easterly.we rang the yamaha man to come out to haven.he said the leaking carburetter in the 15 hp was due to dirt,and there was some in fuel filkter.not sure how it gets thru filter.it then ran but no power.he then said we had put in wrong sparkplugs last week.he obviously had not replaced them during his service.he did now,and it ran well.later I when I checked the manual,it said both types were OK.so all very strange.
with the little 2 hp he said they had forgot to change sparkplug during service!he put a new one in and it ran well.later I checked the manual and his new plug is not specified.later it stopped again. all very strange!i will just have to get it fixed properly in phuket.
we went ashore with the 15hp,having a run around the harbour,past the floating dock,several ships at anchor,tha coastguard with 10 boats,the navy with a dozen,then the huge dutch passenger liner which had just come in and dwarfed all other craft,then an old white smaller liner,then some small cargo boats,some steel,some oldfashioned wood.and having come all along waterfront were now in little chatham boat basin,where the boat boy was waiting as usual to take and mind our dinghy.we pay him 100 rupees for half a day or 200 rp /day.
we then got 2 tuk tuks to aberdeen bazaar.the usual rate is 80 rupees for 2 people.now they wanted US$20!-as the cruise ship was disgorging its wealthy passengers! we negotiated indian rupees and were off to aberdeen bazaar.this area has several covered markets and lots of small busy streets.the women all wear colourful saris.the shops are full of goods and colour,spilling out onto footpaths.lots of black and yellow noisy tuk tuks,black and yellow old fashioned ambassador taxis,and cows serenely walking in middle of trafic.very few private cars-usually susuki marutis= very small.
at the bazaar we stocked up on fruit and veges, had chai for 3 rp,went to the halal chicken shop to get 2 frozen chickens.the locals get a fresh chicken from one on display and have it killed there in front of you and dressed,but the crew declined.
we had an early dinner at our favourite indian restaurant,where our meal highlight was the crab masala.tuk tuk back,dinghy past the "rotterdam",now impressivel all lit up with party lights from bow to stern.we put our blue flashing light on deck,as usual,and had an early night.tomorrow we head north to havelock island,probably number 7 beach anchorage.

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Sunday 10 February 2013

NORTH CINQUE ISLAND 10feb2013

A short motor to North Cinque Islandtoday.lovely white beach,which we couldnt go ashore as no permit,AT 3000 Rupees a day,$75 A bit much.a warship came along and sent two dinghy loads of youths to play ashore. the 2hp outboard was a failure.would start,go 20 seconds,then stop.back to port blair to try and get them both working properly tomorrow.
went for a nice snorkel.fish average.visibility ok,not great.most coral dead,but lots of early regeneration.not as good as S E Asia pilot book says.but was lovely doing a long drift snorkel back to boat.lunch was leftover mutton magic,somewhat more tender today. the navy dinghies detoured on way back to warship to wave to our young crew.
then went around to "best anchorage " in andamans but too much swell,so ended up at CHIRYATAPU anchorage.major current and some swell,so a rolly night ahead.
we are meant to call port blair on hf radio twice a day with our position and movements-but unable to get through yet.
kkerry cooking stirfry vegetables for dinner.

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SOUTH CINQUE ISLAND .ANDAMANS 9 FEB2013

Wwere disappointed when the 15hp outboard just repaired and serviced by yamaha man in port blair refused to start.so we paddled ashore.spotted several spotted deer who ran away.did a big walk up a big hill.great views.we saw one small fishing boat,which left.otherwise total isolation-just us.home for lunch.
Haven was surprised when everyone then went to sleep.refreshed we took dinghy out again.this time the 2 hp outboard worked perfectly.on the beach was a huge monitor lizard.when it saw us it ran away rapidly.snorkelling was big boulders on rippled sand with a few nice fish,and no coral.island looks so pretty in pm sunlight.
Haven also surprised at other new activities aboard-vigorous exercise sessions in salon with loud music,sunbaking on foredeck,sleeping on cabin roof under shade covers,excessive use of sailmail(boyfriends),sleeping after sunrise& new ipod music.
mutton masala and rice for dinner.not as tender as at home.

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Friday 8 February 2013

SOUTH CINQUE ISLAND 8feb2013

snorkelling with huge humphead parrot fish this afternoon was great.motored,as no wind, 30 nm south of port blair,intime for lunch using kerrys freshly made bread.also made water all the way-still a thrill. put up our new shade covers and they work well keeping boat much cooler.the 3 ladies donned stinger suits and off we went in dinghy,sophie at the helm.lovely little deserted island,palmtress,no-one else here.chicken soup for dinner-fresh chicken and lots of local fresh veges-so nice.tomorrow our permit,which took visits on 3 sucessive days to forestry dept,allows to go ashore! Ww will be trying to spot spotted der,and monotor monitor lizards.

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andamans 6feb2013

hi,we are safely in the andamans.olivia flew in today,via kolcata.we are anchored in nice harbour at port blair ,the capitol.got in 10pm sun nite.took all day mon to do formalities.coastguard arrived first,then customs,then immigration,about 15 men in total,doing all paperwork on Haven.then we had to go and see the harbour master-mr kumar,very chatty,and even gave us all a cup of tea,today we had our 15hp outboard sucessfully repaired,and the 2hp unsucesfully-it still died 12 times in the 1 nm back to haven.so take it back tomorrow.port blair is like little india,with the women all wearing colourful saris,but without the poverty and overcrowding of mainland india,1000 nm away.we have a little taxi driver called vijay who drives us everywhere,harbour master,forestry for permits to cinque islands,dive shop for mask and snorkel,yamaha man,has helped organise phone and internet,laundry,lunch today-very nice,and the Cellular Gaol today- most impressive place-where england incarcerated indian political prisoners,1900-1938,with lots of torture ,deaths and hangings-so now it is a national monument to all the martyrs.very colourful markets,.taxis are antique morris ambassodors or 3 wheel tuk tuks,.we certainly feel we are somewhere different and somewhere nice.locals are very friendly,chatty,and helpful.hardly any other westerners here,apart from some other yachties.tomorrow we pick up permits to visit some remote islands,go to anthropology museum & go to markets to reprovision,before heading out the next day,initially to the cinque islands.bye for now.bruce ,kerry,soph and liv
ps nic,can you send us email address for dee

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Thursday 7 February 2013

SIMILANS,HOH MIANG 01022013

Nice sail 50 nm to koh miang,one of the similan islands,making drinking water from the sea on our new watermaker
we got last mooring , near windpony in front of main beach.very pretty group of little islands,with sandy beaches, soaring trees,and headlands with huge boulders.several dive boats in bay.after swim,tried outboard which wouldnt start.were going over to windpont for dinner.so dick kindly picked us up.lovely meal and evening.
we stayed for 2 days,snorkelling and relaxing.soph and i had one delightful snorkel with a turtle.dick and lyn took us over to the passage in their dinghy-great water clarity and the tropical fish had such vivid colour.
i swam in to main beach.there is a large resort ,ranger station and naval base on island,all almost invisible from sea because of planning and dese forest foliage.found some-one to look at our big outboard but no luck.he did get our little outboard going however-just water in petrol.we depart for andamans tomorrow,and winpony head back to phuket.

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SAILING! TO NAI HARN BAY,THAILAND ,with SOPHIE,29jan,2013

Sophie one or daughters flew in yesterday,to travel with us for 2 months,.she is having a year off uni.it is so nice to have her with us on Haven.
we got a taxi down to au chalong in the morning to check out of thailand.muzza was still finnishing the canvas work,and our Yanmar engine spares arrived,and david the rigger put clutch on mast for our new topping lift.At 1 pm we fueled and then departed with pilots on falling tide,on the tortuous path out thru the mangroves and shallow bay,with depth alarm going off all the time as only 0.7 m under keel.once in deep water we hoisted sail and had a lovely time sailing south and around to Nai Harn Bay on west coast of Phuket.lovely swim,and good sleep at anchorage.feels good to be back just sailing and travelling after all the boat work.off to the Similans islands tomorrow

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