Sunday 28 October 2012

THAILAND.PHI PHI DON. 27oct12

A great anchorage.gives a glimpse of great Thai cruising next year.
Fantastic news to hear Quantum Leap arrived safely in south africa after a tough crossing from mauritius.
Sailed one hour,then an easy motor sail,41nm to phi phi don.passing between 2 main islands was a con1tinuous cavalcade of flash new passenger launches with big outboards going very fast-this is the busy day tripper tourism we have heard about.went around to Ao Yongkasem anchorage and dropped anchor,in 18 m.beautiful bay-the pale sandy beach,the tropical vegetation,then the cliffs.lots of tourist boats.lots of bright fluoro jackets bobbing in water.we swam in to reef and had a lovely long snorkel.lots of fish around tour boats eating bread,.then a walk along beach with the monkeys.the tour boats all left and it was tranquil.2 cats came in and anchored,and 5 motorboats rafted up close to cliffs. A snorkeller came aboard in wetsuit for drinks=solo sailor darcy from canada.alex,from spain,came over to exchange some beers for potatos,took them back to the cook-he is skipper on his ssmall charter cat,then came back to socialise.A vert calm anchorage overnight.

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Friday 26 October 2012

THAILAND.KO MUK.EMERALD CAVE 27oct12

An easy day motorsailing through islands to delightful anchorage with amazing cave.
On the way we did some stainless steel polishing-long overdue-makes a huge distance-so will do it regularly from now on.we both did an exercise session .reading-calder:watermakers.
We anchored mid afternoon,in deep green water,below 300 meter cliffs,which are topped by verdant forest.dinghied over to entrance to emerald cave,tied up to a buoy,donned wetsuits,fin and masks,and did the 80 meter swin through,with underwater torches,very pretty,to a hong=small amphitheatre,about 100 m across,with 360 degree huge steep walls,open to the sky,sandy beach at cave entrance,tropical garden on other side,most impressive.Similar to scenary we saw in philippines,but enjoyed more as we also did snorkel and kayak.another pleasant evening on boat,just us.

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THAILAND! 26 oct2012

We have just sailed to a new country.we have done land travel before to thailand,but not boat.
Departed Rebak at unusually civilise hour of 8 am.5 nm later we went into pretty telaga harbour marinafor diesel.As the internet connection was good we lingered on fuel dock doing final email and skype with our malaysian dongle.
About midday we crossed boudary into thai waters.lots of floating buoys with flags.this usually means nets=hazard,and would have been a problem except we had been told in rebak pool yesterday that they have single traps below,no nets.lots of colourful wooden fishing boats.then we started seeing lots of islands,many of them the famous karsts= steep limestone cliffs,with vegetation on top.about 4 pm,after about 30 nm of easy motor sailing,we dropped anchor,in 5 m ,at Ko Balun,between 2 small islands.pretty and quiet-just us.
Finnished 2 nd les norton novel-no literary value whatsoever,but nice to read as set in NSW & Victoria.the 1st one was called Leaving Bondi.tachtswap freebies to be recycled in phuket.Kerry is reading An Extreme Event-the 3rd book we have about the famous sydney hobart yacht race.
dinner was preprepared chicken casserole,with some beans,potato& sweet potato added tonight.With it I had a 2007 sth african shiraz bought dutyfree in langkawi for A$5 per bottle-bought a dozen(thanks robyn.kerry had a 2005 chardonnay from chile for 5rm=under 2 dollars-past its peak but not too bad.so many wines with age in asian liquor stores-probably gfc and low turnover.

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REBAK MARINA 20-25 OCT 2012

We enjoyed 5 days at our favourite marina having a mini holiday.
Rebak is a little island near main island of Langkawi.there is just a tasteful resort,and the marina.the marina was almost full,with about 100 -150 boats in water,and 50 on the hardstand.it has an excellent cafe called the hardock cafe,overlooking the boats,just for yachties,with affordable meals ans drinks.yachties can use the resort facilities.we enjoyed going to the pool at 5,then halfprice happy hour at 6 at resort beach hut,then dinner at hardock cafe.
one happy hour I tried my 1st margarita=nice,so had a 2nd.
several walking trails around island to keep fit,or use the gym.
It was great catching up with rick and robin .they are working on their catamaran,Endangered Species,on the hard.we always have fun with them,and always learn new stuff.also northern winds and dedalus=fun socialising.
one day we got the resort ferry to langkawi.we picked up our hire car from mr Din,40 rm per day(A$13!).First stop was a great lesson on engine timing with a very nice man called peter.then liquor shop,supermarket,check in/out,post office,hardware shop,chart shop-thailand,andamans indian ocean.also got flags for thailand,mauritius,reunion=french,and south africa,which is exciting.forgot to get Indian flag for Andaman islands.
Mark ,shipwright,had a look at our leaking integral fiberglass underfloor watertanks,and concluded not easily fixable,as floor and most of salon woodwork would need to be removed.so will put flexible water tanks in they are pvc inner,with nylon outer.will need to get internal fiberglass battens removed,.will also consider a watermaker.
Tomorrow we leave for thailand.Weather looks OK.We are somewhat aprehensive about getting our boatwork done,as so many negative stories.But we need to get boat sorted for next year,plus get home for christmas,then back for thailand sailing season feb/march.

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PENANG TO REBAK.20 oct 2012

Probably our best sail this year!We left on high tide about 0330 as shallow entrance.after dawn e turned engine off,and had a great sail ,to the islands of langkawi,and into Rebak marina.64nm.arrived about 2pm.such a nice marina- see next blog entry.

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PENANG 18-19 oct2012

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Tuesday 16 October 2012

SINGAPORE TO PENANG DAY 3 17oct2012

Another busy night-hundreds od little sqid boats,some with fishnets out with flags with little lights.a few tugs and cargo boats also in our zone.the shipping channel ended after port klang ,so no narrow procession of big ships. Lightning all night but no storms over us so far.kerry had a morning nap. passed pangkor- bigger fishing boats pulling nets.then not mant boats at all.shipping channel ended shortly after port klang yesterday.so easier navigation now.we both did exercise .midday nap for bruce.a lovely afternoon just sailing-so nice without engine noise.sunset tonic water with lime,then dinner.now approaching penangisland.sails down and engine on as we approach channel between penang and mainland.lots of thunder and lightning-but we got through without being hit or wet.under the new bridge being built-Ithink it is 11km long.then the bright lights of penang-lots of tall buildings,under 2nd bridge.lots of ships,most at anchor,plus little boats out fishing,with nets strung between little flags with little lights,anchored off straits quay marina aboiut 11pm,to await high tide,and a lovely few hours sleep.375nm,3 days,ave 5.7 knots.a pleasant passage.

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SINGAPORE TO PENANG DAY2 tue16oct12

A busy night.we are travelling between major shipping lane and the coast.a narrow area,the Malacca strait itself is narrow here,dbetween malaysia andsumatra,indonesia.many ships to our left,many fishing boats inshore,tugs towing barges inshore-tugs usually dont have ais and their long barges are not lit or poorly lit.so close watch,doing nightwatch shifts, with ais,binoculars and eyeballs,.
when the captain awoke in the morning,the crew was doing laundry having alreadt done 40 min exercise.during the dat we passed port dixon marina and port klang.the latter is malaysias busiest port so we had to avoid big ships going in and out.decided to go overnights to penang as weather good,and progress good,altho motorsailing.
in the pm the captain felt guilty and restarted his exercise program.
as sunset approached,we approached one fatom bank lighthouse.many many fishing boats ahead,with floting nets almost a km long,so moved to very edge of shipping lane

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SINGAPORE TO PENANG mon15oct2012

The marina was quiet and still as we crept out early.Did immigration clearance in the sea again,in the predawn grey.this time the documents went over and back in a fishing net on a pole!We had positive current as predicted,and zoomed thru western half of singapore strait.the AIS maxed out at 150 targets,but behaved perfectly again.the ais said some ships were 1000 feet long,with a draft of 38 feet-our length is only 40 feet.after rounding bottom tip of malaysia,we headed northwest up the Malacca Strait.for lunch we had the lovely rye bread barb gave us,with brie cheese,living lettuce and tomato-delicious-all from Cold Storage-so nice to have good produce.
Positive current with ebb tides(=between HT &LT)-so doing 8,8 knot during lunch.motorsailing as usual as wind on nose.plan to go overnight
after lunch it was ipad,read and naps.reading the sunday singapore Straits Times newspaper-lance armstrongs demise,and julia guillard in Bali-she gets lots of coverage in local papers.

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SINGAPORE sunday .V-drive,millionaires row .

Time to change the V-drive oil,before seeing Atlantia off.then fill water tank,hose salt off haven.Wifi in marina not working so quick trip to Orchard road to get internet topped up.orchard road has the most expensive retail shops in singapore-fascinating,busy,but not our scene.
Gosi took us on an afternoon walk in sentosa.initially lots of apartment blocks,the new one overlooking sea look pricey.thenthe amazing millionaires row.all the freestanding houses have sea views,or are on a canal,and prices are 20-40 million singapore dollars(say 15-30A$).Lots of expensive cars,including exotic sports cars and rolls royces.Some of the houses were very tasteful,althe many had huge glass fronts with leather furniture and no privacy,many were a bit quirky,and some were downright bizarre.one had a 2nd floor swimming pool with glass front,most had pools,some with windows to basement,some had weird thatched rooves,bot the winner had an egyptian style all of its own-wait till I can post photos.(doing this as sailmail on oenang passage.
That evening we had a delightful final meal on Gosi.
We have really enjoyed our 5 days in Singapore.looking forward to another visit next year.-still havn't seen most of highlights eg some museums and art gallery to see.hope we can get into one15marina again

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SINGAPORE fri12oct boat jobs,MPA &CHEAH.

Time for some boat jobs-changed engine oil,change oil filter,change secondary fuel filter.Next-go to MPA to do port clearance,as they are closed on weekend.On the way we met a very friendly helpful Singaporean local,who came to MPA with us,then took us to top of nearby building,(where he works as a financial advisor).on the 30th floor there was a fascinating view over the huge,busy,container port,and beyond that,many ships at anchor,and sentosa island to one side.took some photos on Ipad-will put them on blog when Ilearn how to transfer them from ipad.then Cheah took us to a cosy cafe for coffee and toast.he then walked us back to bus stop.lovely talking to a local.we look forward to our return stop in singapore im may next year when Cheah will take us sightseeing and we can show him our yacht Haven and cruising lifestyle.
friday night happy hour on floatind dock bar-met some of the expat liveaboards,and then 8 of us went to harrys bar,in marina,for pizzas.

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SINGAPORE,one15marina thur 15oct2012.SLR

This is most impressive marina we have stayed in.very well built.Surrounded by tasteful highrise apartments and marina buidings-including gym,fancy swimming pool,bars and restaurant,an excellent Cold Storage supermarket,,and filled with superyachts and motor boats,plus a few sailboats,sitting in smooth dark water.al superclean.An army of boatboys clean them every day!the marina is on the island of Sentosa,with lots of expensive real estate(more later).
We came to one15marina as tom and barb from gosi now live here.they both have great jobs,and plan to stay here for 3 years.it is terrific catching up with them,and seeing what a great lifestyle they have working in Singapore,and living aboard Gosi in such a nice environment.

0900 coffee with Atlantia,then they showed how to get shuttle bus to MRT station,and bus to onestop to clear in withPort Authority(MPA).after that we caught 131 bus to city to Sim Lim centre= 6 floors of electrical shops.amazing place.bought a sim card reader for Ipad,and a SLR camera.
we got some fresh food from Cold Storage,cooked on boat bbq and had an early night-still catching up on sleep

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MIRI-FIX ANCHOR WINCH-01oct2012

Fixing the anchor winch was not as sraightforward as expected.
the new phlange had arrived from australia.when removed old broken phlange gearbox oil came out.to refill had to remove gearbox.to do that we had to remove windlas.luckily we had taken photos during inofstallation.We could not have completed the project without the help of Alf on D0bedo-thanks Alf.we needed o new gasket,which Alf made.also a new metal key,which i made,after instruction from alf,with vice,hacksaw and blade.I even watched a hacksaw tutorial on youtube first!the bush on motor shadt was worn and needed remedial filing.the phlange holes were not exact-alf revised them.then we put oil in gearbox,attached the motor,then reinstalled windlas,and it worked!It was interesting seeing how Alf diagnosed each problem and solved it.It was another learning curve and more experience for us.So we all went out to our favourite bbq duck and rice chinese fto celebrate.
On our final day we went into town to do customs and immigration,supermarket to provision,paid marina bill,went looking unsucssfully for aunt dell,s friend oi chin,did diesel and water,and changed engine gearbox oil.
Copout came in in the afternoon,en route to langkawi,having just sold their catamaran to adam and kay on lucid dream.so lots to talk about during sundowners on copout.

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MIRI to KUCHING 4-6oct2012

A nice trip,3days,2 nights,286 nautical miles.
On the way i read Cruising for cowards,another bookswap freebie.it made me realise how far we have come in becoming proper yachties-but also a lot more to do and know.
The water pressure pump stopped working,and was very hot,so we gave it a rest.when kerry retried it I noted water coming out back of boat,and it was hot!While the captain noted this in the log,the crew worked out it was a loose connection in our cockpit shower,opened one of her toolkits,and fixed it.
Night sailing with a halfmoon.so much nicer than no moon and a black night.
mainly motorsailed.arrived santubong river,near kuching,saturday morning.santubong mountain most impresive looming over our river anchorage.dinghied into shore,organised diesel,aand went for a walk thru prety little muslim riverside village,where we found a cute old chinese cafe,where we had a simple late lunch,with a chine beer.

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SINGAPORE,one15marina thur 15oct2012

This is most impressive marina we have stayed in.very well built.Surrounded by tasteful highrise apartments and marina buidings,and filled with superyacghts and motor boats,plus a few sailboats,sitting in smooth dark water.all

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SARAWAK to SINGAPORE 7-10 oct 2012

Another nice passage.3 days 416 NM.
AS we left Borneo it was time to reflect on our 4 months there.we started at miri marina,sarawak,where we left Haven,for a fabulous months landtravel with Sophie-climbing mt Kinabalu,visiting Kota Kinabalu,flying to Mulu Caves,public bus 10 hours to Sibu,on the mighty Rejang river,overnight river trip upstream to Kapit,river/ocean ferry trip sibu to Kuching,such a lovely city,with history,then sarawak rainforest music festival-really good.An overnight road trip to Brunei.spohie flew home to oz.we then went in BIYC=Borneo intl yacht challenge,where we got a 3rd prize in labuan to KK ocean race,then sail over the top of sabah,to kudat,island hop-Tigabu basic,then the resort island of Lankaying with turtle hatching and release,then sandakan,then up the Kinabatangan river for a few nights,back to sandakan,for death march memorial service,heritage walk and agnes keith house.next we went to palawan in the philippines,back past KK to Miri Marina,leaving Haven for a week for to go scuba diving Sipidan.Borneo was great!(and we had been to indonesian borneo ,Kalimantan,last year,going up the Kumai river,to see the fantastic orang utans).
as usual ,kerry made her lovely bread,and also the lovely yoghurt.we eat well on passages.
enough wind to motorsail-not enough to just sail.but no bad weather like philippines rerurn trip.andstill had moon at night.By Tue PM,we were 40 nm from singapore,40 nm from anywhere,and there upon a glassy moonlit sea,were 5 huge empty ships at anchor.from then on it was ships,ships,ships.
About midnight we crossed the main shipping lane.a big ship going both ways every5-15 minutes,doing 10-20 knots.We used the AIS to time our race across to mid channel,at max revs,then to other side.after that it was still very busy,with so many ships at anchor,and moving,and this goes on for next 35 nm till marina.AIS so useful.
Then we saw dawn lighting up Singapore CBD.Huge container port between us and cbd,so fairway with massive(they get bigger up close!)container ships going to port.
Immigration is done offshore before entering marina.we didnt realise that,so went in at 0630,and tied up at fuel dock,till marina office opened.we were then told correct procedure,so after fueling,back out,to two sisters islands,call them on VHF,and motor launch promptl comes over,a man on bow collects our passports and paperwork in a paperbag which kerry passed over.after a few minutes,duly processes,they were similarly returned.back to marina to our berth.
Time for a brief afternoon nap,then out for a great night,with Gosi,Atlantia,Northern Wind,starting at Boaters Bar,happy hour,on marina-pontoon,then marina eatery.good to catch up.then good to have long sleep-no night watches tonight.

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Sunday 14 October 2012

TAWAU to KOTA KINABALU .film festival.300912

We started breakfast with some fresh fruit from nearby market.them lovel omelettes at hawker stand,with several cups of coffee,doing some postcards and watching the world go by-love a relaxed travel day.Caught afternoon flight to KK.on plane read in Borneo Post newspaper,see photo,about the 1937 film "Borneo" being shown in KK at borneo eco film festival.so as we had a 5 hour stopover,we went and saw it.It was nmade by an american couple,who had their own dismantable seaplane.we 1st heard about them through agnes keith housr which has their original kerosene fridge,and agnes keiths book below the wind.the man was killed before film was edited,so it had never been shown in borneo before.a classic film,altho patronosing,not in colour,and the finale is the capture of a superb male orang utan,destined for a zoo in USA?
Late flight back to Haven in Miri

MUCK DIVE sat 29sept2012

2 dives,lunch and fly to Tawau.
Dive #1=Kapali.muck dive.sandy bottom.artificial reefs including sunken local wooden fishing boat.giant groper,moray eels on the move,a painted lobster,banded pipefish and a cute very small,white,frogfish.back to rig for coffee break.
Dive#2=Mabul,at Stingray City.well we did see one stingray.A good dive.A giant moray eel,2 turtles,a large garden of garden eels,and the largest cuttlefish I have seen- just hovering up close.
After final lunch on rig,we were taken by speedboat to semporma,then shuttlebus to tawau,with an aussies diver regularly ringing hid f- i- l for updates on australian rules final.
We checked into the very basic ,but adequate Soon Ye hotel,put all our dive gear out to dry,got directions and mudmap from very helpful chinese man at hotel,and walked to Tawau Yacht Club.lovely long pier with ornate pavilions and woodwork- a great place to relax over a few beers.only one yacht at anchor- they were ashore,and came from indinesia,going to singapore.bruce finnishedpaul theroux-the happy isles of oceania- in hawii, an excellent read,and kerry was looking up diving in Palau.more exercise walking back,early chinese meal and bed.